IN TERVIE W BY HOLLY STUART HUGHES
a visual way. For me, it’s a breath of fresh air
to be able to encourage that.
There are also opportunities to fail.
Sometimes you want to try something.
Accidents happen. Some turn out to be
incredibly interesting from a photographic
point of view, and some don’t work out. It’s
OK due to the sheer quantity of work we’re
producing. You learn and move on, and
there’s incredible freedom in that.
PDN: What quantity of work are
TK: It depends. Last year we shot maybe 35
stories a month. Those shoots ranged in size,
obviously. This year we’re trying to cut back
to maybe 25 stories a month. But in addition
to those, we’re working on 350 to 400 stories
a week that require photo research. That’s
a week, not a month. We’re a very busy
department. We have four full-time photo
researchers, and then we have a freelance
overnight photo editor who works mostly
with the Los Angeles writers.
PDN: When do you decide to do photo
research, and when is assigning
TK: In some ways, it’s a completely different
process from a magazine. We also create our
own stock libraries.
If it’s a trend story, you can’t necessarily
do pick-up and it’s not going to come from
the archive of stock we shoot, so we’ll
assign that. We’re only able to shoot six or
seven beauty stories a month, so there are
[other] times when we’ll shoot product on
a background we illustrate. For fashion, we
might be working on a fully styled trend
story, an accessories story, a how-to and
some “trademarks” stories—about someone’s
personal style. Those are all commissioned.
But we go into our stock archive
constantly because we’re posting 80 stories
a day, and there’s no way we can assign all
of that. So we’re shooting maybe five stock
shoots a month.
PDN: How do you produce images
for your stock archive?
TK: We have a partnership with Getty to
expand their library of images of women,
shot through our lens. We shoot for that,
and those images end up in our archive.
We also shoot stock specifically for us. Our
photo research editor is the brains behind
BELOW LEFT AND RIGH T : More from Kate Owen. Says Kaufmann, “We want to see our readers reflected in our work,
in our fashion, food, workout and stock photography,” as part of a goal to help women “claim their power by
delivering optimistic, diverse, creative storytelling and points of view.”